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Thread: ac compressor short cycling...Low freon or is it another problem?

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    Default ac compressor short cycling...Low freon or is it another problem?

    Hey everyone...Compressor wasn't cycling at all so added a little freon and started to short cycle...Off for about 8 seconds and on for 2. Gauge on store bought freon kit says about 45 psi when off and about 23 psi when on...the 45 psi is in range of outside temperture. Is it a good idea to keep adding 134 till the compressor runs constant? As always thanks for the help. Al. Oh crap..Almost forgot....temperture also stays constant through the band from 60 till 85..Then at 90...Bam...Full bore heat....Tried the gray arm,no movement...Am I in for a blend door job?

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    You may still need more, but don't keep adding refrigerant indefinatly. The system only holds a specific amount. Over filling is very bad. Manual for a 98 states 34 ounces so don't add more than that. If the system was completly empty you might need more than 1 can. The 98 specs state 40-47psi when the cycling switch is closed and 22-28 when it is open.

    Best thing is to have the system properly recharged. A critical step is completly evacuating the system and doing a leak test. Many places will not charge you if they detect a leak. Of course, it is much more expensive than 2 cans.
    98 LSC Torreador Red
    "He had suits so fine they made Frank Sinatra look like a hobo. Yes,....Ron Burgundy was the balls!"

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    Thank you much...I only dropped in a bit to get it to cycle..just didn't expect a short cycle. The can I'm using is 24 oz. Will post results later.

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    If it was ow and not cycling you could probably put tha whole can in or at least untill it seems to cycle correctly.
    98 LSC Torreador Red
    "He had suits so fine they made Frank Sinatra look like a hobo. Yes,....Ron Burgundy was the balls!"

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    To confirm it's cycling on low pressure you can jump out the low pressure switch on the accumulator. It's a 2 wire plug, just unplug it from the sensor and jump the pins in the connector. If the compressor stays on it needs more freon.
    -Bryan-
    1998 Mark VIII LSC - 1990 Thunderbird SC 5spd - 2005 Explorer Limited 4.6L - 1995 Taurus LX 3.8L - 2003 Taurus SEL 24V - 1988 Kawasaki EX-500

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    Default just to update

    First of all,thanks so much for the help. I've put 24oz in an ac has gotten colder and compressor is running well. But as I stated in the OP the temp still stays constant throygh the band from 60 till 85....Then I hit 90 and whammo...Full on heat. From all I've read,this doesn't sound like a blend door issue as I have both ends of the band.....If I'm mistaken please correct me.

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    Don't go over 85!
    Bud Pytko
    2005 Ford F250 6.0 PSD CC 4X4 LB
    2012 VW Passat - Makes for a two-diesel Family
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    1997 Lincoln Mark VIII - SOLD - But not forgotten


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    Quote Originally Posted by Marked_Man View Post
    But as I stated in the OP the temp still stays constant throygh the band from 60 till 85....Then I hit 90 and whammo...Full on heat. From all I've read,this doesn't sound like a blend door issue as I have both ends of the band.....If I'm mistaken please correct me.
    Wait, maybe I don't understand. Are you saying the output temp stays the same (presumably cold?) regardless of the setting unless it's set to 90?

    Have you tried the EATC self test?
    JP


    Boss 5.3L Modular Mark VIII



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    Quote Originally Posted by driller View Post
    Wait, maybe I don't understand. Are you saying the output temp stays the same (presumably cold?) regardless of the setting unless it's set to 90?

    Have you tried the EATC self test?
    You've read me right Drillman.... stays constant cool till 90.then its the tropics. Sounds like I've got a new issue..Maybe I'll have a sticky named after me. :-)

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    Try to see if you get any codes...

    Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

    The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.

    The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.

    The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

    To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

    If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

    If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

    To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

    To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

    Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
    JP


    Boss 5.3L Modular Mark VIII



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